Mike:
I have a 1948 British Ford Anglia that was raced in the ’60 Gasser Wars.
I have extremely large polyglass tires (33.5″ x 19.5″ mounted on Weld Draglite 15″ x 15″ Aluminum Wheels) on the rear, and as soon as I get the vehicle up to 35 mph, the vehicle likes to rock and roll.
So, I have purchased new Hoosier Steel Belted Radials and have downsized the wheels to Draglite Aluminum 15″ x 12″ wheels, which everyone has said will help.
However, I also have been told that I should change out the rear shocks that are mounted with adjustable coil over
springs.One party says that it’s O.K. to just change out the shocks and another party says that it’s best to change out the
adjustable coilovers and shocks at the same time.I know when you have standard shocks and leaf springs, the leaf springs aren’t changed out – just the shocks, so I am
in a quandary as to what to do.What do you think are the best coilovers to purchase for my application?
By the way, I don’t plan on racing this vehicle and believe it’s racing days are over.
I am converting it to a fully functional street rod, but am planning on keeping the dragster looks – functional Simpson
parachute on the rear trunk panel as well as functional wheelie bars as well.Thanking you ahead of time for whatever information that you can provide.
Respectfully,
Paul
Paul,
Unless the springs are broken, weak, or just plain bad, I believe you are right when you say you only need to replace the shocks and not the springs.
Most folks do not place a high enough premium on the importance of quality shocks and go with ones that are low cost. This is a very grave mistake. When all is said and done it is the shock that can really make or break the ride quality of a vehicle.
What we see a lot today is the use of high pressure gas shocks on vehicles that were designed for the use of good old hydraulic shocks.
High pressure gas shocks can add up to 75 Lbs. of initial spring rate per shock.
What this means is when the vehicle encounters a bump or dip in the road an extra 150 Lbs. of force is required just to get the suspension to start moving.
We hear an awful lot of complaints of rough riding vehicles that are simply solved by changing the shocks. And based upon your letter I bet you fall into this category.
We always say “buy the best quality shock you can afford”.
And for our money that would be a QA1.
QA1s are available with both 12 way adjustments (which is really enough) and 574 way adjustments for those who want to really fine tune their ride.
Our other line of shocks are Edelbrocks, which have automatic adjustments built into the shock.
And of course we handle them both. But you would need to call, for we will need mounting dimensions and style.
-Mike
